Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Luce Memorial Chapel, Taichung

One of Taiwan's architectural masterpieces


The Luce Memorial Chapel (路思義教堂) in Taichung is one of the most beautiful places of worship I have ever seen and experienced. I've been to many churches and temples before, but I've never felt so welcome and so relaxed like in this amazing structure. Those who read my blog know, that I don't particularly like Taichung City, but seeing this building slightly changed my perception for the better, as I am a big architecture buff. The church is located at the Tunghai University (東海大學), amid a very beautiful park. I was very surprised, when I've read, that the church dates back to 1963, because it looked like it was built just recently. The design is timeless.

What impressed me most was how the roof literally connects the sky with the ground, figuratively connecting heaven and earth, God and his worshipers. And not only that, the roof is at the same time the wall, maybe the symbol of God as the protector? There are so many things one can think about, when you sit near this beautiful chapel and admire its design and the location. The park is beautiful as well. But you need to go inside to experience something even even more overwhelming.

The Luce Memorial Chapel from the outside.

The chapel is attracting a lot of passionate Taiwanese photographers.

The reflection of the afternoon sun.

The cross on top of the roof is very modest.

And then we went inside. The interior is very simple, but genius. You have the feeling, that the chapel will collapse any time, but some higher power is keeping it intact. There was a group of Christians singing songs, that were so beautiful, that even an atheist like me was moved by them. My wife and I sat there on the bench, drank water and listened. Outside was very hot and humid, inside it felt peaceful and soothing. This was probably the first time, that I really felt something positive connected with the Church, because in my home country that institution doesn't have a good reputation. But this experience was like something completely different, I saw the cross and I thought of Christianity, but without all the cultural and historical baggage attached to it. Seeing that sun coming inside the church and completely outshining the altar and the performance of the choir, I felt very small and humbled in that moment. It was a surreal experience, but one that I truly enjoyed.

The sun as the part of the chapel's interior design.

The lonesome ROC flag. It felt very small in that corner.

I think the best way to let you experience a glimpse of this chapel's magical atmosphere is the video below, which I took with my mobile device. The quality is not the best, but at least you will get an idea, what you can see and experience in this wonderful piece of modern architecture.


If you want to visit the chapel, you will find it on this map. The Tunghai University campus is located outside the city proper, best is you take a cab. Once you arrive at the campus, you will need to walk for about 15 minutes, but it's truly worth it, as the area is very green, with trees, bushes and a small creek. There are maps, you won't get lost. I don't think Taichung has a lot to offer to a spoiled European tourist like me, but this one is an exception and definitely won't leave you unimpressed.

All information taken from taiwan.gov, read more>>

[My TAICHUNG page][My ARCHITECTURE page][Photos and video by MKL, 2011]

11 KAFKAESQUE COMMENTS:

Clive said...

Very unusual and original structure indeed. And it does not look small in the inside.The inside walls too are out of the ordinary. Thanks for sharing!!!

June 29, 2011 2:31 PM  

Bananazஇ said...

You are pretty good at 'playing' with the lights in your pixz very nice. Very outstanding building tQ.

June 29, 2011 7:00 PM  

Traveling Hawk said...

A fine modern building! I like those guys there, trying to shot every tile!

June 30, 2011 7:26 AM  

Mabel Low said...

Fascinating!!! I've been longing to go to Taiwan for too long now. ):

June 30, 2011 5:47 PM  

James said...

Been years since I've been there. Definitely a cool building but pretty obviously from that era to me.

The architect Chen Chi-Kwan worked with Gropius and while I'm no expert, I'd say there's an element of Bauhaus in the unity of structure and purpose that you alluded to.

Interestingly, I.M. Pei later claimed sole credit for the design. Most interestingly, to me, is that it was funded by Henry Luce in honour of his old man.

The Time founder/owner was one of CKS' biggest backers and apologists, personally lobbying the US government to fund Chiang kleptocracy.

He and other proselytisers with China connections (as well as his wife) were instrumental in getting Chiang to convert. I think he went to his grave not realising Chiang was a rice Christian opportunist.

Given your mention of the issue of light in the building, the name 'Luce' is kind of fitting too!

July 1, 2011 10:47 AM  

MKL said...

@Clive: It's truly not so small inside.

@Bananazஇ: Thanks :)

@Traveling Hawk: Yeah. Maybe next time I should climb on some temples ;)

@Mabel Low: Come and visit :)

@James: Thanks for all the additional info :)

July 3, 2011 6:02 PM  

kyh said...

oh wow this is such a lovely church! and yes, the architecture looks more like it's built recently! i like to design of the roof and how to sunrays reach the interiors and brighten it up - giving it a sense of holiness.

July 8, 2011 2:31 PM  

FOARP said...

It's a pity to have such a nice building dedicated to such a thoroughly bad man. Henry Luce was one of Chiang's top American backers, and a staunch supporter of Jor McCarthy's "Reds under the bed" reign of terror, especially his persecution of the US State Department's China experts after the CCP won the Chinese Civil War.

July 8, 2011 9:57 PM  

MKL said...

@kyh: Good observation.

@FOARP: Well, in the end, it's a building dedicated to someone who died on a cross.. or so they say :)

July 12, 2011 12:00 AM  

Lulu said...

a bit ugly from sideview, but otherwise original and... enlightening from inside )

September 11, 2011 8:59 PM  

MKL said...

@Lulu: Thanks for your comment.

September 12, 2011 1:44 PM  


Please read my comment policy, before you comment.

  © Free Blogger Templates Spain by Ourblogtemplates.com 2008

Back to TOP